Agrapart L'Avizoise Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2006

Old-vine concentration runs deep here — brioche, honeyed lemon curd, and crushed chalk layered with real density but no heaviness. Fruit from Les Robards and Voie d'Epernay, fermented in neutral wood, gives the wine a seamless, almost seamless sense of wholeness, the barrel influence absorbed rather than announced. Fine bubbles carry the weight gracefully, texture and tension in genuine balance. Wound tight at present; give it several more years before pulling the cork.