A. Margaine Spécial Club 2006

Lemon curd, wet chalk, and a faint thread of smoke open this quietly compelling wine. The three Villers-Marmery Chardonnay parcels are handled with real intent — steel aging and blocked malolactic keeping the acidity sharp and the lines clean, without a trace of slack. Persistent, fine bead drives the tension through to a stony, focused finish. Austere by design, and all the better for it.