Laherte Frères Pinot Meunier Les Vignes d'Autrefois Extra Brut 2005

Dried apricot, smoked earth, and candied citrus rind come through with real depth and concentration. Fine bubbles carry a core of preserved orchard fruit through a long, chalky finish with a flinty, almost brooding edge. Striking that a wine closing in on twenty years still carries this kind of tension and drive, the smokiness and grip feel alive rather than faded. Drink now through 2030.