Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes de Cramant Extra Brut 2004

Cramant's old vines deliver something close to elemental here — citrus pith, chalk dust, a whisper of smoke, and a stony core that runs all the way through to the finish. The 2 grams of dosage is essentially invisible; the wine's own concentration carries everything. Tight, focused, and built for the long haul. A pure expression of grand cru terroir at its most uncompromising.