La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 2004

Deep ruby, still lively after two decades. This 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha blend leads with red cherry conserve, sweet spice and dried violet, with vanilla, licorice and a mocha thread running underneath. Sappy and focused on entry, carried by juicy, lifted acidity that keeps the ripe raspberry and cherry cola fruit from tipping into heaviness. The finish is pure and penetrating, floral pastille and smoky mineral notes that trail long after the wine has gone. Generous Ardanza in a textbook vintage, never weighty.