Paul Bara Bouzy Grand Cru Brut 2002

Woodsmoke, toasted brioche and grilled stone fruit open with real authority, the hallmark of Bouzy's full-bodied style. Concentrated and rich on entry, with ripe peach and apricot underpinned by a firm chalky backbone that keeps everything honest. An oyster-shell edge runs through to the finish, which lingers long and clean. Impressive that twenty-plus years have only sharpened rather than softened this, drink now through 2030.