La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1997

Mature and composed, with dried cherry, cola and cedar on the nose, threaded through with a faint smoky minerality. Red fruit — cherry, strawberry, a trace of potpourri — unfolds slowly on the palate, gaining presence with air. The tannins are fine and polished, never harsh, and the finish stretches out with vanilla bean and sweetly-toned fruit leaving a gently chewy impression. Classic 904: grilled lamb or well-seasoned beef will meet it where it lives.