La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1994

Deep red with a brick rim, exactly where you'd expect a 1994 of this pedigree to be. Dried cherry, rose hip, cured meat and mocha lead the nose, with incense and sweet oak spice lending an exotic, almost oriental undercurrent. Generous and supple on the tongue, the tannins have fully softened, the red fruit carries a gentle sweetness, and a trail of dried flowers and smoke lingers well into the finish. This is 890 at its most complete: traditional Rioja craft executed with quiet authority. Drinking beautifully now, and will hold through the late 2020s without difficulty.