Vega Sicilia Unico 1991

Dark ruby, still holding its color well. The nose opens on plum, dried cherry and roasted meat, then drifts toward iron, truffle and mocha before cool mineral and medicinal herb tones take over, that last quality is what separates this from the bigger, more opulent Unico vintages. Mid-weight on the mouth, composed rather than commanding, with fruit that is present but held firmly in check. Those herb notes linger through the mid-palate, giving the wine a distinctive, almost austere edge that suits it well. Dusty, fine-grained tannins carry through to a finish of genuine length. A polished, understated Unico, closer to quiet authority than muscle, and none the worse for it.