La Rioja Alta Vina Arana Reserva 1991

Aged Rioja at a graceful crossroads. Dried strawberry, tobacco, damp earth and a trace of vanilla from the oak. The fruit is fading gently into something more savoury, loam, leather, a thread of espresso, which suits a wine of this age. Acidity runs firm and almost austere, keeping the structure lean and the whole thing honest. Holds on longer than the delicate appearance suggests. Drink with food now, or allow another year or two to round off the edges.