Ruchè

Ruchè most probably comes from the hills around Castagnole Monferrato (Asti province), where growers have long kept it, though never in large quantity. Its name is usually tied to a dialect word related to roncet, a vine virus the variety is said to resist. Naming a grape for a disease it avoids is an odd choice, so this explanation is best held loosely. A popular tale holds that monks brought the vine from Burgundy during the 1700s, but historical records, ampelography and DNA work give it no support.

Genetic studies carried out in Italy suggest a relationship with Croatina and with Malvasia aromatica di Parma, a fragrant variety that is now close to extinction. Accounts disagree about how near the link is: some describe a direct cross, others only a distant kinship. Parentage is therefore better called probable than proven. A Malvasia contribution would fit the aromatic side of the wine.

During the twentieth century the variety nearly disappeared. Don Giacomo Cauda, a local parish priest, is credited with reviving it at Castagnole Monferrato starting in the 1960s, and commercial bottlings followed. The grape received DOC status in 1987 and DOCG in 2010. In Alessandria province, small plantings are known as Moscatellina and Romitagi.

Ruchè ripens early to mid season, and its ripe, sweet fruit tends to attract wasps, which raises the cost of leaving it on the vine too long. It is susceptible to powdery mildew and needs a vigilant spray and canopy programme. It shows good tolerance of some viral diseases that affect leaf formation, a trait often cited in its history. Acidity is naturally low, so picking date matters: harvesting too late flattens the aromatics and pushes alcohol up, while picking too early emphasises the bitter tannins. The vineyards sit on the hillsides of the Monferrato around Castagnole, generally on calcareous clay and sand. Total planted area remains small, and almost all of it lies inside the DOCG zone.

The standard style is a dry red with a clear rose and spice perfume, medium body, moderate colour and low acidity. The DOCG rules require at least 90 percent Ruchè, with Barbera and Brachetto, alone or together, permitted up to 10 percent. Most producers ferment and age in stainless steel or large neutral containers to keep the floral lift, and alcohol commonly sits around 13 to 14.5 percent. A Riserva tier requires at least 24 months of ageing, of which at least 12 in wood, giving darker fruit, more spice and a firmer frame. Ruchè can also be made as an off-dry or sweet wine, a minor style, and some growers bottle dry varietal wines under a wider Monferrato designation. The wines suit lightly chilled service and the savoury dishes of Piedmont.