Grape Guide
Ciliegiolo
RedCiliegiolo is a black-skinned Tuscan variety named for its small-cherry fruit, and it is a close genetic relative of Sangiovese, most probably its parent. Long used to soften Sangiovese in Chianti, it now supports varietal reds from the Maremma and Umbria's Narni area that are bright, juicy and light in tannin.
Key Characteristics
- Black-skinned, with medium to large and often compact bunches
- Parent-offspring link to Sangiovese confirmed by DNA profiling
- Vigorous vine that suits poor, dry hillside soils
- Prone to botrytis on fertile soil; acidity can be modest
- Italian plantings fell from over 6,000 ha in 1982 to under 2,000 ha by 2010
Typical Flavors
Major Regions
Maremma (Toscana) · Narni (Umbria) · Chianti and Chianti Classico · Morellino di Scansano · Val di Cornia · Golfo del Tigullio (Liguria) · Colli di Luni
Also Known As
Albana Nera (Emilia-Romagna) · Brunellone (Grosseto) · Canaiolo Romano (Pistoia) · Ciliegiolo di Spagna · Mazzese · Morettone · Riminese Nero (Pisa)
Overview
Ciliegiolo is a black-skinned Italian variety whose name means little cherry, a nod to the fruit that dominates both the berries and the wines. It is grown mainly in Tuscany, where for generations it was valued as a blending partner that adds fruit and suppleness to firmer Sangiovese, and as a minor component in Chianti and Morellino di Scansano. Since the 1990s a small group of producers, led by growers in the Maremma, has bottled it on its own. These wines are typically ruby to deep red, with cherry, strawberry and light spice, medium to full body, soft tannins and a juicy, sometimes low-acid finish. Plantings have fallen steeply since the 1980s, which leaves the variety a niche but increasingly respected choice for fresh, early-drinking reds.
Origins & History
The oldest probable mention dates to 1600 and concerns the vines of the Florence area; it describes a Ciriegiuolo Dolce bearing elongated bunches and large berries, with a fragrant, sweet flavor suited to warm soils. The name is Italian for little cherry. Local tradition says pilgrims returning home from Santiago de Compostela brought the vine from Spain around 1870, which would explain the synonym Ciliegiolo di Spagna; that date sits awkwardly beside the earlier record, though, and DNA work has found no connection to modern Spanish varieties. A second tradition holds that the Etruscans domesticated it from wild local vines, a claim that cannot be tested. Microsatellite analysis in 2002 showed that Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese are related as parent and offspring. A 2007 study established which way the relationship runs and concluded that Sangiovese is a natural cross of Ciliegiolo with Calabrese di Montenuovo, an obscure Campanian variety. A later proposal, drawn from parentage testing, reverses the picture and makes Ciliegiolo the offspring of Muscat Rouge de Madère (Moscato Violetto) and Sangiovese. That result is difficult to reconcile with the first finding, showed some DNA discrepancies and remains unresolved. Ciliegiolo has often been confused with Aglianico, and an early DNA match to Aglianicone was traced to a mislabelled vine. In Emilia-Romagna, the vines called Albana Nera proved on testing to be Ciliegiolo itself, although it has no relation to the white Albana. In Tuscany, DNA profiling likewise confirmed Brunellone, Mazzese and Riminese Nero as synonyms.
Viticultural Characteristics
Ciliegiolo is vigorous, with medium to large, often compact bunches, and it performs best on poor, well-drained hillside soils in warm, dry climates. Budburst comes after Sangiovese's, and ripening is generally described as early to mid-season, although the seeds can lag in phenolic maturity, so late picking may leave acidity low. Basal buds are less fertile, so longer pruning suits it better than short spurs. It is susceptible to botrytis, particularly on fertile soils, and to wind damage; moderately susceptible to downy mildew and sour rot; and fairly tolerant of powdery mildew, esca and drought.
Wine Styles & Characteristics
The traditional Tuscan role was as a minor blending partner, contributing cherry fruit and softness to Sangiovese in Chianti and Morellino di Scansano, where its generous fruit offsets Sangiovese's firmer structure. Varietal examples are mostly unoaked or lightly oaked reds in a fresh, fruit-driven style: ruby to deep red, with aromas of cherry, strawberry, red plum and light spice, supple tannins and a juicy palate. Some resemble Cinsault in their lightness and perfume. Riper wines from low-yielding old vines can reach medium to full body, though acidity is often modest. Carbonic maceration is used in the Maremma for Novello Toscano, and in Liguria the Golfo del Tigullio DOC permits Ciliegiolo in still, sparkling and novello versions, either varietal or blended.